Bangkok’s Chinatown is a vibrant tapestry of sights sounds and smells from hundreds of street food vendors. It’s hard to resist. As I mentioned in my last blog, we weren’t enjoying Bangkok but everything changed when we entered Chinatown. I’d never seen anything like it.
Camera in hand, I was ready for the spectacle before me but unprepared for what I found. Bangkok’s Chinatown is massive and packed with people: tourists locals monks and more. The sheer volume of activity was overwhelming and I felt like a deer in headlights.
I don’t thrive in busy noisy places and Chinatown was probably the busiest I’ve ever seen. Yet something strange happened: I felt right at home. The hustle and bustle didn’t bother me; I was embracing it.
Our first stop was somewhere to eat. This is usually a challenge for me but with so many options it was easy to find a place. Elizabeth helped with this. The food was incredible and cheap. After eating we headed back to Yaowarat Road to see what it had to offer for my street photography.
Street photography in Chinatown is like shooting fish in a barrel but I was finding it frustrating. I tried not to be negative but here’s why. In the UK you can capture almost every moment happening around you but in Bangkok that’s impossible. This frustrates someone like me who wants to capture everything. I had to remind myself I couldn’t capture every moment and focus on slowing down taking a breath and simply enjoying my time. It took a while but eventually I started to enjoy what I was capturing.
We’d stroll slowly down alleyways and along the river, pausing to capture fleeting moments. We’d stumble upon riverside bars, settle in, order beers, and bask in the sun. Chinatown seemed to slow down for me, allowing me to fully immerse myself in the surroundings. The intoxicating atmosphere captivated both Elizabeth and me, leading us to develop a deep love for Chinatown and its surroundings.
We spent most of our time exploring Chinatown, and it quickly became our favourite place. Sharing drinks by the river was an unforgettable experience that neither of us will ever forget.
The incredible opportunities this area offered were simply unparalleled. I’ve never been so spoilt for street photography, and I doubt I ever will again. Bangkok’s Chinatown is the world’s largest, as I was told, and I would believe it. The main road through Chinatown, Yaowarat Road, resembles something out of Blade Runner, bustling with traffic, people, shops, and after 6pm the night market starts with street vendors taking over some of the busy road. It’s a wild sight, unlike anything you’d find in the West. However, venture away from Yaowarat Road and explore the other side of Chinatown, and you’ll discover a completely different world. Some streets are dark and quiet, while others are alive with markets and locals riding their motorcycles through unexpected routes.
I’d wander these back streets with a smile, eagerly anticipating the next unexpected encounter. People were cooking and preparing food in small alleys behind restaurants, while locals slept on the floors or atop boxes. The sheer amount of activity made for a wonderful experience.
Every corner held the potential for a story, a testament to the rich tapestry of human experiences that thrive in the shadows.
Just on the outskirts of Chinatown, I discovered Hua Lamphong train station. My friend Rammy’s book Platform 10, a photograph project, introduced me to this station and I was determined to visit and see where the photos were taken. I didn’t anticipate becoming obsessed, visiting it repeatedly, but let’s save that for another blog.
